Deja Vu Marbella Vintage
Ahh LBD – The little black dress …Didier Ludot writes: “First worn by a select few (in the 1920’s)- intellectuals and artists like Kiki de Montparnasse – the little black dress soon became a must for all women of fashion that would hold sway for the rest of the century…”
The stunning Catherine Deneuve demonstrates !
From the Book published by Assouline : “Vintage treasure : The Little black dress”
Coco Chanel (1883- 1971): Through determination and ambition, Coco Chanel began her career as a designer of fine women’s clothes and accessories.
Coco Chanel’s philosophy was to emphasize understated elegance through her clothing. Her popularity thrived in the 1920s, because of innovative designs. Chanel’s own look itself was as different and new as her creations. Instead of the usual pale-skinned, long-haired and full-bodied women preferred at the time, Chanel had a boyish figure, short cropped hair, and tanned skin. She had a distinct type of beauty that the world came to embrace.
“Horse”culture and a penchant for hunting, passionately pursued by the elites (especially the British), fired Chanel’s imagination. Her own enthusiastic indulgence in the sporting life led to clothing designs inspired by those activities. From her excursions on water with the yachting world, she appropriated the clothing associated with nautical pursuits: the horizontal striped shirt, bell-bottom pants, crewneck sweaters, and espadrille shoes—all traditionally worn by sailors and fishermen.
In 1918 Ms. Chanel, being such a savvy business woman, acquired the entire building at 31 rue Cambon situated in one of the most fashionable districts of Paris. In 1921 she opened what may be considered an early incarnation of the fashion boutique, featuring clothing, hats, and accessories later expanded to offer jewelry and fragrance. By 1927 Chanel owned an expanse of five properties on the rue Cambon . 21 Rue Cambon is the current address of the Chanel Shop in Paris and has been there as Chanel shop/workshop since 1913.
Her initial triumph was the innovative use of jersey fabric in her famous Chanel suit, a machine knit material traditionally used in the manufacture of undergarments. Her wool jersey traveling suit consisted of a cardigan jacket, and pleated skirt, paired with a low-belted pullover top. This ensemble, worn with low-heeled shoes, became the casual look in expensive women’s wear.
Identifying a need to liberate women’s hands from the encumbrance of a hand held bag, Chanel conceived of a handbag that would accomplish this stylishly. Christened the “2.55” (named after the date of the bag’s creation: February 1955), its design, as with much of her creative inspiration, was inspired by her love of the sporting world.
The original version was constructed of jersey or leather, the outside featuring a hand-stitched quilted design influenced by the jackets worn by jockeys. The chain strap was a nod to her orphanage years, reminiscent to Chanel of the abbey caretakers who wore such waist chains to hold keys. The burgundy red uniform worn by the convent girls was transmuted into the bag’s interior lining. The bag design went through a reincarnation in the 1980s when it was updated by Karl Lagerfeld. Known as the Reissue, the bag retained its original classic shape, with the clasp and chain strap differing from its initial form. Lagerfeld worked the House of Chanel logo, “CC” into the rectangular twist lock and wove leather through the shoulder chain.
Also credited with the ” little black dress “, Chanel designed the original LBD in thin silk, crèpe de chine, and long sleeves and has become a contribution to fashion that survives to this day.
Hermès was established in 1837 by Thierry Hermès who began the company by producing horse harnesses for European noblemen. Hermès won prizes for quality and workmanship in the Expositions Universelles in Paris in 1867. His son Charles took over the management and in 1880, moved the workshop to 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris center, where the shop still stands today.
In 1900 the firm offered a carry bag for riders to carry their saddles called Haut à Courroies . This H.A.C bag was the forerunner to the modern Kelly and Birkin Bags.
Later in 1914 Charles two sons took over Hermès and secured exclusive rights in France to the “zipper”. They used the device for fastening many of their leather products . Called the “Hermès fastener”, it was first used to fasten a leather golf jacket for the Prince of Wales.
In 1922 the company then began production of women’s handbags. In 1935 the leather Sac à dépêches was introduced (later renamed the “Kelly bag” after Grace Kelly), and in 1937 Hermès began production of their now legendary silk carrés (scarves) .Details
Óscar Aristides de la Renta Fiallo (born July 22, 1932 Domenican Republic) is one of the world’s leading fashion designers. Trained by Cristóbal Balenciaga and Antonio Castillo, he became internationally known in the 1960s as one of the couturiers to dress Jacqueline Kennedy. An award-winning designer, former designer with Lanvin and Balmain; his eponymous fashion house continues to dress leading figures, from film stars to royalty, into the 2010s. De La Renta is particularly known for his red carpet gowns and evening wear.
Missoni is an Italian fashion house based in Varese , known for its original knitwear designs in colourful patterns. The company was founded by Ottavio and Rosita Missoni in 1953 .
It started after war when Ottavio’s father set up a workshop , making wool track suits which were adopted by the Italian team at the 1948 london Olympics … Ottavo himself qualified for the for the final of the 400 meter hurdle race ! At Wembley he met his future wife Rosita Jelmini, daughter of a family of shawl makers living in the province of Varese.
In 1958 they presented in Milan their first collection, called Milano-Simpathy, which was the first to bear the Missoni label.
Their fame was assured in April 1967, when they were invited to exhibit their collection at the Pitti Palace in Florence. Rosita Missoni told the models to remove their bras, supposedly because they were the wrong colour and showed through the thin lamé blouses.The material became transparent under the lights and caused a sensation.With their designs being championed in the US by Diana Vreeland, editor of Vogue magazine, the Missonis opened their first boutique in N.Y. inside Bloomingdales department store.
The three children of the founders play a large part in the business. Vittorio (born 1954) is the Marketing Director, Luca (born 1956) was responsible for the design of the menswear collection through to the Spring/Summer 2008 collection. Angela (born 1958) was only the womenswear designer but took over menswear beginning with the Fall/Winter 2008/2009 collection. Luca in turn became the head Creative Director/Director of the company from then on.
Missoni knitwear is known for its multitude of patterns such as stripes, geometrics, and abstract florals, in a kaleidoscope of colours. They are also known for the liberal use of many different fabrics such as wool, cotton, linen, rayon and silk.Details
This is a Hermès Birkin Suitcase called a HAC. In 1892 Émile-Maurice Hermès introduced the Haut à Courroies, or HAC, which translates+- as “High Belts”. The HAC was inspired by tote bags Argentinian gauchos were using to carry their riding equipment .
VERY RARE !